Saturday, 12 January 2013

Daily Grind: Surfer Bud Freitas tells his story of redemption

It's a familiar story: boy finds he has a talent for a sport, boy rises in sport, boy struggles, begins to party too hard, burns out, hates his life. Boy then decides he needs to get his act together, and boy finds redemption. No matter what permutation of the redemption story you hear, it's always interesting (hell, all of Hollywood is based off this premise), which may be why Surfer magazine's February issue centers around comeback stories. For example, they talk about Santa Cruz,..

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